Skid Steer Tires, Tracks, and Traction

How to think about traction before you buy?

Traction is a system, not a single component. Tires or tracks set your contact patch and compound. Pressure, ballast, chains or studs, and the surface itself finish the equation. Before you price a set of 10×16.5 or 12×16.5 skid steer tires, write down three things: your dominant surface, your heaviest attachment, and your worst season. That list tells you whether to lean toward snow tread skid steer patterns, a hard surface tire skid steer setup for pavement, or a more open severe duty skid steer tire for demo and rock. If you spend half your year on snow routes and the other half on concrete, plan on two setups and a clean changeover routine instead of asking one tire to do everything poorly.

Tire sizes, patterns, and compounds you should actually consider

Most loaders in North America run one of two common sizes. The decision is not only about diameter and width; it is about sidewall stiffness, load rating, flotation, and how the tread pairs with your typical ground.

Pattern families that cover 90 percent of jobs

• Block tread for pavement and mixed yards. Stable, low squirm, long life on hard surface tire skid steer duty. Modest self cleaning in mud.
• Lug or R4 style for dirt, mud, and snow with chains. Deeper voids bite and clean. On dry pavement they can feel vague and wear faster.
• Hybrid directional patterns for four season fleets. Sipes for winter grip, block shoulders for pavement stability, and center lugs for dirt. Jack of all trades that still benefits from seasonal aids.
• Non marking compounds for interior slabs. Softer, lower abrasion fillers. Excellent in warehouses with skid steer forks and floor protection rules. Poor choice for rock or hot asphalt.

Compounds in plain language

• Hard compound for long life on concrete and asphalt. Less cold grip. Pair with chains or studs in winter if you plow.
• Soft compound for cold and wet. Better bite and shock absorption, shorter life in summer heat. Keep speed modest to avoid heat cracks.
• Cut and chip resistant compounds for demo. More resistant to chunking in rebar yards, but stiff in the cold and slick on polished slabs.

Snow tread, block tread, and severe service options

If winter is real in your market, get intentional. A snow tread skid steer pattern uses aggressive siping, softer winter compound, and more biting edges at the shoulder. It is a noticeable jump in plow control on packed snow and ice. For lots that include polished concrete or pavers, remember that snow patterns can scuff. Consider a block tread with chains for those properties if the owner cares more about surface than lap times.

• Snow tread skid steer tires excel under 25 mph, in cold temps, and on mixed packed snow. They dislike hot summer asphalt and heavy curb prying.
• Severe duty skid steer tire designs use thick sidewalls, reinforced bead areas, and cut resistant compounds. They are perfect for tear out, scrap yards, and demolition cleanups where blocks and rebar abuse sidewalls.
• Block tread shines on long pushes, paved campuses, and warehouses. When you hit shoulder seasons with freezing mornings and sunny afternoons, block tread with studs or light chains balances grip and surface respect.

Foam fill, air, liquid, and the pros and cons for each

Flat prevention and ride tuning matter. Your options are air only, liquid ballast, and foam filled skid steer tires. There is no one right answer across every route. Pick based on puncture risk, allowable ground pressure, and how much you value ride and component wear.

• Air only: light, best ride, lowest unsprung weight, easiest on final drives. Requires diligent pressure checks. Carry plugs and a service plan.
• Liquid ballast: adds weight down low for traction and stability. Cheap and effective on snow pushers and forks. Watch corrosion, valve leaks, and slosh. Label your tires so techs know what is inside. The phrase tire ballast skid steer should also remind you that extra weight raises ground pressure on finished lawns.
• Foam filled: true flat proofing. Heavier, stiffer, hotter in summer. Reduces bounce with heavy planers and breakers, improves stability with long forks, and keeps routes on schedule around nails and scrap. Shortens component life if you smash curbs daily because the suspension is now the chassis.

Rule of thumb: choose air for mixed sites with a lot of travel, liquid ballast for snow and forks where stability is gold, and foam for yards with constant puncture risk and predictable speeds.

Chains, studs, and traction aids that work

You can transform the same tire overnight with the right traction aid. The trick is matching the aid to the surface and speed without tearing up property.

• Skid steer chains for snow: ladder chains bite on packed snow and ice, square link or V bar chains bite harder in polished ice. Tighten properly, recheck after the first hour, and keep speeds down to save sidewalls and hubs. Remove before you return to bare pavement routes that include pavers.
• Tire studs skid steer kits: screw in carbide or retained stud systems add micro bite without the whip of chains. Great for campuses and garages when surface protection rules out chains. Check owner policies and local laws before you stud a fleet.
• Traction aid skid steer plates: bolt on cleats and wrap on friction sleeves exist for specialty jobs. They are slower to install but save the day on short projects without buying a second tire set.

If you manage HOA and retail contracts, keep one chained machine for steep drives and one clean machine with block tread for pavers. That is cheaper than paying for surface repairs in spring.

Rubber tracks and over the tire tracks

Tracks change the game on soft ground, slopes, and snow. You have two paths. Buy a compact track loader with dedicated undercarriage and rubber track compound that matches your climate, or add over the tire tracks to a wheeled skid as a seasonal conversion. The first is a system built for tracks. The second is a useful compromise that keeps one machine flexible. If you push into the question of skid steer tracks vs tires, start by listing how many days you truly need flotation and how many days you need pavement manners.

Track width, lug design, and pitch for snow, mud, and rock

Track geometry is a bigger lever than brand names. Wide tracks float. Narrow tracks bite. Lug height and spacing decide self cleaning and vibration. Pitch decides how the undercarriage rides and how quickly sprockets and idlers wear.

• Track pattern skid steer choices include block style for pavement and hardpack, staggered bar for mud and clay, and snow specific lugs with more edges and sipes. A winter track compound with a block pattern is a quiet, predictable setup for plow routes with long pushes and lots of curbing.
• Wide tracks for soft ground. Choose 16 to 18 inch options for peat, wet lawns, and sand. Go narrower for sidehill forestry where you need penetration.
• Short pitch tracks ride smoother at speed and spread load across more links. Long pitch tracks can feel choppy but may clear mud better. Match pitch to the sprocket you own. Never mix.

Track tension, inspection, sprockets, and idlers in cold weather

Cold changes everything. Rubber stiffens, seals shrink, and ice hides inside guards. Track tension skid steer checks must happen at the start of every winter shift. A loose track derails when you turn on ice ruts. An over tight track eats seals in a week.

• Set tension by the book with the machine lifted and a measured sag at the mid roller. In deep cold, recheck after ten minutes of running as rubber warms and relaxes.
• Cold weather tracks collect ice around idlers. Knock it out before you move at speed. Ice wedges misalign chains and chip lugs.
• Idler inspection in winter looks for cracked rims, leaking seals, and flat spotting after a long park on a frozen lot. Roll the machine slowly before you load it so idlers wake up rather than skid.
• Sprocket teeth should be clean of packed snow. Ice between teeth and bushings accelerates wear. Keep a pry bar and rubber mallet on the trailer for morning knockdowns.

Ground pressure and surface protection on premium pavements

Ground pressure skid steer numbers tell you rutting risk and whether a property manager will call you in spring. Tracks lower average ground pressure but can still scuff pavers when you pivot. Tires focus load in a small patch but can be kinder on pavers if you run block tread and avoid tight spins. Surface protection skid steer plans matter on new concrete, exposed aggregate, and porcelain pavers.

• Paver safe setup starts with clean block tread, conservative ballast, and matting on turning zones. Avoid foam filled tires on fragile surfaces unless you use pads and never pivot in place.
• On tracks, choose rubber pad patterns and slow down near joints. Lift the front slightly when you pivot to reduce shear.
• Use ground protection mats at entries and curb transitions. These save edges from spalling and keep you off sprinkler heads and light bases you cannot see under snow.

If you bill premium properties, document your paver safe setup in the contract. That includes tire pattern, no chain policy on certain lots, and a cleanup clause that covers sand and salt tracking.

Job based pairing and seasonal changeovers

Changeover discipline that saves money

• Swap as a set. Mixed patterns on one machine steer weird and wear fast.
• Torque lugs, paint mark nuts, and recheck after the first hour. Temperature cycling settles everything.
• Log mileage and hours per set so you know when to rotate and when to retire rather than waiting for cords to show.

Care, rotation, storage, and transport

Tires

• Set pressures for the day’s load and temperature. A few PSI low in summer prevents crown wear. In winter, the right pressure preserves contact patch as the rubber stiffens.
• Rotate front to rear on wheeled skids every 150 to 250 hours if your routes are mixed. Fronts scrub during loader work. Rears scrub during plow turns.
• Plug small punctures promptly. Liquid ballast leaks demand a thorough rinse and new cores to avoid corrosion rot at the bead.

Tracks

• Wash salts and cement dust off lugs and around rollers. Chemicals dry rubber and eat seals.
• Store out of sun. UV ages compounds. If a machine parks outside, tarp the undercarriage when possible.
• Transport with blocks that support undercarriage. Loose tracks drum and beat idlers on long hauls.

Chains and studs

• Dry chains before storage and oil lightly. Label size and machine so they go back to the same tire setup next winter.
• Remove studs when temperatures stay above freezing for a week to protect pavement and extend tire life.

FAQ

Should I pick 10×16.5 or 12×16.5 if I run a heavy snow pusher?

Choose 12×16.5. You get more volume, stability, and footprint under a pusher. The machine feels calmer at the end of a push and sidewalls live longer. If transport height is your limiter, 10×16.5 with chains can still work on smaller pushers.

Are foam filled skid steer tires worth the ride penalty?

They are when punctures ruin your schedule or you run constant demo. Expect a stiffer feel and more shock into the chassis. If operators complain, reduce speed and train smoother steering. Foam keeps jobs moving in nail and scrap zones where air fails daily.

Do over the tire tracks damage concrete?

Steel bar styles can, especially when turning in place. Rubber pad styles are kinder but still demand gentle steering. If you must protect pavers or stamped concrete, avoid OTT and schedule a CTL with block pattern rubber and slow turns.

Which is better for snow, chains or studs?

Chains bite harder on ice and deep pack but can mark surfaces and demand low speeds. Studs add controlled micro bite for polished concrete and garages with fewer surface complaints. Many fleets keep both and choose per property.

Can track machines replace chains in winter?

Often yes, if you run a winter track compound and a block pattern. Tracks shine on grades and windrows. Chains on tires still win on glare ice over polished concrete where you need point bite.

How tight should my CTL tracks be in deep cold?

Set to spec with measured sag, then recheck after warmup. Cold rubber shrinks and raises effective tension. Over tight tracks burn seals and idlers. Under tight tracks derail when you pivot in ruts.

What is the best tire for paver safe setup?

Block tread, non marking if indoors, and no chains. Keep pressures correct, avoid pivots in place, and use mats in tight turn zones. Communicate your plan to the owner so expectations match reality.

Do I need different rubber track compound for winter?

If you run full winters, yes. A winter track compound stays pliable and grips better. Summer compounds harden and lose bite below freezing. The upgrade pays for itself in control and reduced cracking.

Are severe duty skid steer tires overkill for landscaping?

Usually yes. They are heavy, stiff, and expensive. Save them for demo and scrap. For landscaping, a hybrid or R4 tread rides better, protects turf when steered gently, and costs less to replace.

How do I decide between skid steer tracks vs tires for my next machine?

Count days on soft ground and slopes versus days on pavement. If most work is off road or winter routes on grades, pick a CTL. If most work is on finished surfaces with tight entries and frequent trailer moves, stay on tires and add seasonal aids.